12V vs 24V Linear Actuators: Which One Should You Choose?
Share this article
Every HyHaven actuator comes in a 12V version and a 24V version, and buyers understandably ask which one is "better." The honest answer: neither — but one of them is almost certainly right for your project, and the deciding factors have little to do with power or speed. They have to do with the power system you already have, the current in your wiring, and the size of the actuator you need.
Two Myths to Clear Up First
Myth 1: 24V is faster. Not as a rule. An actuator's speed is set by its motor and gearing, not by the voltage label alone. Do not pick 24V expecting a speed boost — check the speed figure on the specific model's Full Specifications instead.
Myth 2: 12V is weaker. The force ratings are the same story in reverse. A U3 is a 6000N actuator in both its 12V and 24V versions. What changes between voltages is the current needed to produce that force — and current is where the real difference lives.
The Real Difference: Current
The same actuator draws much less current at 24V than at 12V, because power is voltage times current and the work being done is roughly the same. Here are the verified full-load currents:
| Model | Force | 12V full-load current | 24V full-load current |
|---|---|---|---|
| HH-LA-U1 | 900N | 3.0 A | 1.8 A |
| HH-LA-U2 | 1500N | 3.8 A | 2.0 A |
| HH-LA-U11 | 3500N | 6.0 A | 3.0 A |
| HH-LA-U3 | 6000N | 8.5 A | 3.8 A |
| HH-LA-U6 | 7000N | 16.0 A | 9.0 A |
| HH-LA-U7 | 12000N | 20 A | 10.5 A |
Look at the U6 row: 16.0 A at 12V versus 9.0 A at 24V. That gap is the whole argument, and it plays out in three practical ways:
1. Thinner wire, less voltage drop. High current over long wire runs loses voltage as heat — a real problem on 12V systems, where every volt lost is a bigger share of the total. At 24V, with roughly half the current, the same wire loses less voltage, and long runs from a battery or supply to a distant actuator behave better.
2. Easier switching. Your switch, controller, or relay contacts must handle the full-load current. A 16 A load at 12V needs a seriously rated switch or relay setup; the same actuator at 24V needs contacts rated for 9 A — still substantial, but a much easier part to buy. This is why large actuators pair so naturally with 24V.
3. More headroom in controller kits. HyHaven's Wired Controller Kit in its 24V version outputs 24V DC at 2.5 A, which covers small actuators (U1, U2). At 12V, the equivalent small-actuator currents (3.0 A and 3.8 A) already sit above that figure, so the choice of voltage changes which kit configurations work out of the box. Always check the kit's rating against the table, in the voltage you actually plan to run.
Decision 1: What Power Do You Already Have?
This is usually the deciding factor, and it overrides everything else.
- You already have a 12V system — an RV house battery, a boat battery bank, a vehicle electrical system, a solar setup with a 12V battery. Stay with 12V. Adding a 24V actuator means adding a converter or a second battery bank, which is cost and complexity for no benefit on a small or mid-size actuator.
- You are plugging into mains power indoors — a workshop, a home project, a TV lift cabinet. You get to choose, because you will buy an AC-to-DC supply either way. In that case, let the actuator size decide (see below).
- You are building a new off-grid or solar system from scratch. You get to choose the battery voltage. For a system built around a large actuator, 24V is worth serious consideration for the current and wiring reasons above.
Rule of thumb: never change your whole power system just to change actuator voltage. Match the actuator to the system, not the other way round.
Decision 2: How Big Is the Actuator?
- Small actuators (U1, U2). The current gap is small in absolute terms (3.0 A vs 1.8 A; 3.8 A vs 2.0 A). Either voltage works fine, and your existing power system should decide.
- Mid-size (U11, U3). The gap starts to matter — 6.0 A vs 3.0 A, 8.5 A vs 3.8 A — especially if the wire run is long or the switch is a modest rocker switch rather than a relay setup.
- Large (U6). This is where 24V earns its keep. 16 A at 12V demands heavy wire, heavy-duty relays, and a supply rated well above 16 A. At 24V the same actuator needs 9 A, and the whole circuit gets simpler. If you are buying new and the actuator is this size, 24V is the default recommendation — unless you already have a 12V system that cannot change.
Decision 3: Controllers and Accessories
Check compatibility in the voltage you plan to run, not just in general:
- The Wired Controller Kit ships in 12V/24V configurations — confirm the kit version matches your actuator voltage and that its adapter rating clears your actuator's full-load current in that voltage.
- The Wireless Remote Control Kit's receiver accepts DC 6V–30V, so one receiver covers both 12V and 24V systems. That flexibility is genuinely useful if you run mixed-voltage projects.
- Third-party switches, relays, and fuse holders are rated for a maximum voltage and current — check both numbers, not just one.
A Quick Decision Checklist
- What voltage is your existing battery or supply? If it is fixed, match it. Done.
- If you are buying new and the actuator is large (U3, U6 class), lean 24V for lower current and easier wiring.
- If the actuator is small and you are buying new, either voltage works — pick whichever supply and controller combination is easier to source.
- Whatever you pick, size the supply for the full-load current in that voltage (see our power supply sizing guide), and check that every switch, controller, and fuse in the chain is rated for that current too.
- When in doubt, check the model's product page: the Full Specifications section lists both voltage versions.
FAQ
Can I run a 12V actuator on a 24V supply, or vice versa?
No. Match the supply voltage to the actuator version you bought. The wrong voltage will either over-drive the motor or leave it too weak to do its job.
Can I convert between 12V and 24V?
Yes, with a DC-to-DC converter — but the converter must handle the actuator's full-load current in the output voltage, and it adds cost and a failure point. It is usually simpler to buy the actuator in the voltage your system already uses.
Is 24V safer than 12V?
Both are low-voltage DC systems, but both still need a fuse: a battery or a large supply can deliver high fault current at either voltage. The safety rules — fuse on the positive lead, secure connections, no undersized wire — are identical.
I have a 12V RV system but want a U6. Is that a problem?
Not a problem, just a heavier circuit: size the wire, relays, and supply for 16.0 A at 12V, with headroom, and keep wire runs as short as practical. If the run is long, that is the case where a 24V conversion starts to look attractive — run the numbers before deciding.
Which voltage do most buyers choose?
There is no single answer, because it follows the power system: RV and marine buyers usually stay 12V, indoor mains-powered projects split, and new large-actuator builds lean 24V. Your system is a better guide than any popularity count.
The Short Version
Match your existing power system first. If you are starting fresh with a large actuator, 24V buys you lower current, less voltage drop, and an easier switching circuit. If the actuator is small, the voltage barely matters — pick the combination that is easiest to wire.
For the next step, read how to size a power supply and our guide to wiring a linear actuator. Still choosing the actuator itself? Start with the linear actuator selection guide.