Which Controller Works With Which Actuator? HyHaven's Control Systems, Explained

The compatibility question we hear most is not about force or stroke. It is: "I already have this control box — will it run that actuator?" The honest answer depends on which control system you are in, because HyHaven sells three of them and they do not mix. Every actuator on the store is priced as a bare unit, with controllers sold separately, so matching the system matters before you order, not after a plug refuses to fit. This guide walks through the three systems one by one, then covers the two mismatches we see most often.

The rule behind all three systems

Compatibility is decided by the system, not by the plug. Voltage, wiring and handset protocol are designed as a set: an actuator, its control box and its handset must all come from the same system. A handset from one system will not run actuators from another, even where a connector happens to look similar. If you are replacing one part of an existing setup, identify the system first — by the control box model, not by the shape of the plug — and buy inside that system.

System A: the 12V/24V kits (U1-U8 and U11 actuators)

The U1, U2, U3, U5, U6, U7, U8 and U11 actuators run on standard 12V/24V DC control, and two ready-made kits cover most builds:

  • The wired control kit ($26.99) — a control box and handset powered by an external power brick. The brick takes 100–240V AC input and outputs 24V DC at 2.5A. That output size matters: at 24V it comfortably covers the HH-LA-U1 (1.8A at full load) and the HH-LA-U2 (2.0A at full load). The higher-force U models draw more than this brick supplies, so run those on your own adequately rated power supply instead of the kit brick.
  • The wireless remote control kit ($25.99) — the same 12V/24V world, switched by remote instead of a wired handset.

If you are wiring a 12V/24V U-series actuator from scratch, our linear actuator wiring guide covers the basics step by step.

System B: the Zhiheng 29V furniture system (HH-LA-U9, U10, U4 and U9-2)

The System B actuators — HH-LA-U9, HH-LA-U10, HH-LA-U4 and HH-LA-U9-2 — belong to a dedicated 29V furniture control system. Nothing from System A runs them, and their control boxes run nothing else.

System C: the M07 medical 24V system

The HH-CB-M07 control box is a separate medical-bed system, not a bigger version of System B. It takes AC 220V input only, so it is for 220V mains markets, and outputs DC 24V to up to five actuators plus one handset through multi-pin medical sockets. Its handset is the HH-HC-H07, which pairs with the M07 only — it does not work with the M02 or M03. One accessory does cross between these two systems: the HH-ES-01 emergency stop switch works with the M02, M03 and M07 boxes. For which actuator fills which position on a medical bed, see our medical and nursing bed actuator guide.

The two mistakes we see most

Trap 1: assuming the TP track actuators belong to the 29V system. They do not. The HH-LA-TP41, HH-LA-TP61 and HH-LA-TP21 are 12/24V track actuators and take standard 12V/24V control, even though they sit in the same furniture range as the System B actuators. Do not order an M02 or M03 to run them.

Trap 2: assuming the LC-01 lifting column plugs into the furniture boxes. The HH-LC-01 needs a compatible 24V DC control box and handset, sold separately. Tell us the column and the rest of your layout when you order, and we will confirm the right control pairing before you pay — guessing here is how mismatched boxes end up on workbenches.

Motors and synchronised pairs, briefly

The HH-370 and HH-31ZY worm gear motors run on 12/24V DC and work with standard control gear — no special system needed. Synchronisation is the other regular question: if two actuators must travel together in step, that takes a dedicated synchronising controller. The standard kits above do not include a sync function, so plan for it separately — our guide to syncing two linear actuators explains the options.

At a glance

  • U-series actuator → System A wired or wireless kit (check the wired kit's brick rating against your model, per System A above)
  • U9 / U10 / U4 / U9-2 → M02 (1–2 actuators) or M03 (1–4), with the H05 handset — 29V system
  • Medical bed system → M07 control box with the H07 handset — 220V mains markets only
  • TP41 / TP61 / TP21 track actuators → standard 12V/24V control, not the 29V boxes
  • LC-01 lifting column → a compatible 24V DC control box and handset, sold separately

Still not sure which system your setup belongs to? Send a photo of your control box label or actuator nameplate to support@hyhavenstore.com and we will name the system before you spend anything.

FAQ

Can I run a U9 on the 12V/24V wireless kit? No. The U9 belongs to the 29V furniture system and needs an M02 or M03 control box. The 12V/24V kits are for the 12V/24V U-series (U1-U8, U11).

Does the H07 handset work with the M03 control box? No. The H07 pairs with the M07 medical control box only. The M03 uses the H05 handset.

The wired kit's power brick is not big enough for my 12V/24V U-series actuator. What do I do? That is expected on the higher-force models: the brick outputs 24V DC at 2.5A, which covers the U1 (1.8A full load) and U2 (2.0A full load) at 24V. For anything larger, power the actuator from your own adequately rated supply.

Can I add the FS-01 foot switch to an M07 bed? No. The FS-01 pairs with the M02 and M03 control boxes only.

Do the standard kits keep two actuators in sync? No. Synchronised travel needs a dedicated synchronising controller; none of the standard kits above include a sync function.

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